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Ship's log of Krogen 48' Classic Solveig III: A cruise down the East Coast


The anchor came up without difficulty and we were underway by 0625, first light. Yes, the tripline was wrapped around the anchor and the whole rig was coagulated into a shapeless mass of mud. But we have our trusty sea-water washdown pump. Barbara vowed to hose everything off until water on the deck ran clear, but realized after lots of rinsing that the sea-water here is the color of root beer because of all those trees falling in, so abandoned the enterprise. Unless we go all the way to Oriental we'll use the tripline again tonight anyway.

We started out in near dark, so I had the panel lights turned on to monitor the gauges, etc. Today's scare was that the engine appeared to be running hotter than usual, and just as we were entering the narrow canal, with belligerent-looking tree stumps marching out from both banks. I shut down the engine and Barbara took the helm as we coasted so I could check the seawater strainer. It was clean. The temperature seemed to stabilize about ten degrees above normal, so we decided to continue on at a moderate pace, and check the impeller and other possible culprits more thoroughly when we stopped for the night. A couple of hours later I noticed that the panel lights were still on, so I turned them off. The temperature promptly dropped back to normal - turns out the light bulb was heating the gauge and making it read high. Of course I knew that - I was just testing to see if Barbara was paying attention.

We also learned this morning why "W" doesn't like to read newspapers or have quarrels among his advisers. Three different guidebooks - Captain Bob's, the Waterway Guide, and the great book John and Vicki Thorne gave us, The Intracoastal Waterway, all reported shoaling to about 5.5 feet in the Alligator-Pungo River canal at about mile 124.5. Captain Bob even gave coordinates, which according to our GPS were about a half-mile off the waterway where of course there's shallow water - land, even. But two of the books said the shoaling was on the south side, and one said it was on the north. If you get conflicting advice like that, what are you supposed to do? Invade somebody? Drill through some permafrost? How do you know? (We split the difference - like the Democrats we are - headed straight down the middle, and never had less than 14 feet.)

We've now completed our crossing of both the Alligator River and the Pungo River, and have seen nary an alligator nor a pungo either - at least so far as we know.

Just reached a beautiful anchorage in a place just past mile 172 called Broad Creek, off the Neuse River (haven't seen any of those either), changed another Racor fuel filter (the third so far - I'm about to abandon Passagemaker Magazine's recommendation and go back to ten, instead of two, microns), tried unsuccessfully to reset the satellite to watch the Redskins-Eagles game, and cracked the first Bud Light of the day. Tomorrow a late sleep and Oriental - just an hour away.